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So I Made My Own Brush Display Stand…

06 Feb

because i had a problem. The acrylic display stand that i bought wouldn’t fit into the “suite” of the display box I had. The large space with the MK-2 (on said bought acrylic display stand) I call the penthouse and the small compartments are apartments. I really wanted to have a stand for my Koyudo Fuwafuwa and maybe for my Fupas too which are approximately the same shortness….. so i decided to make my own.

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MK-2 is the brush on the clear thing at the top. Fuwafuwa on DIY stand.

I made the bone colored thing, not the whole black, mirrored box. That’s a repainted, re purposed childhood toy jewelry box.

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Picture8

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Yup. You know you’re crazy and have officially lost it when you start crafting your own accessories because nothing else (within a reasonable price range and time frame of searching) will work.

Of course, the edges aren’t completely smooth. a detail that could be refined. but from far away its not noticeable at all so i don’t care enough to fix it. I could just aim a hair dryer at it to just melt the surface and straighten/flatten it out, but i literally have not picked one up in years so I don’t know where it is or what state it’s in. it’s somewhere gathering dust, gross and icky.

Tips

  • If the water is boiling or bubbling, DONT PLAY WITH THE PLASTIC RIGHT AWAY. You WILL scald yourself unless you have extreme calluses. Turn it down. Ideally it should be around the temperature stated on the thermoplastic packaging directions.
    • I checked the water temperature in the pot with a IR temperature gun and adjusted accordingly. Why do i have one? I normally use it to check the water temp in my fish tanks and a friends likes to borrow it for cooking.
    • fish out the melted plastic with a metal utensil and poke at it with your finger after half a minute or so to check temperature. plastic doesn’t conduct heat well so it should be cool enough to mold quite quickly.
  • make sure your little work area is free of plastics and porous wood. i recommend metal or ceramic surfaces for the optimal, swear-words free space.
    • melted thermoplastic is like melted hot glue gun goo
    • pull it too fast without rolling or spinning it into a clump and you will get flying cobweb-like threads that stick everywhere
  • warm thermoplastic sticks to other plastic like glue when warm. It sticks to metal and ceramic too but slides right off  when cool.
  • take your nail polish off too, thermoplastic will stick to it and pull that shit off when you try to remove it.
    • also, acrylic nails = not even once.
  • keep idle pieces (cooling pieces you aren’t using) in thin sheets – see step 3 – rather than balls and lumps so they re-melt faster
  • use a shallow metal dish in conjunction with the pot. I poured water from the pot into the dish to cool it slightly so my hands were more comfortable. I used the hot pot water to remelt and stick pieces together
    • when dish water got too cool, i would pour the water back into the pot to mix temperatures, and immediately pour some of the mixture back into the dish. that way it was warm enough to work the plastic easily, but low enough to mold barehanded
  • I highly recommend using a scientific/laboratory hot plate if you happen to have one. oh you have one? HAHAHA NERD ALERT.
    • jk.
    • But in all seriousness, lab hot plates have a temperature knob that allow for fine control of the water temperature which speeds up and eases the process.
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Posted by on February 6, 2016 in Crafting

 

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