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Long Lasting (No Primer, No Setting Spray) “No Make Up” Make Up with a Surprise

18 Dec

*Going to an event with a lot of crickety, conservative people like them*

Mom and Dad: Don’t embarrass us by wearing too much makeup!

Me: Minimal makeup. Got it.

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The Product Spread. For a full list and routine details, see the end of this post.

M & D: !!!!!!!!!!!!!! WHAT DID WE #$%@&%$ SAY?!

Me: Relax. It’s going to look like a whole lotta nothing.

*30 minutes later* See?

M & D: Oh, okay. Doing nothing took so long!?

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But wait! What’s the glimmer? That literal twinkle of michief in the outer corner of the eye.

 

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*zooms*  wait for the blink

SURPRISE!

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They couldn’t be mad about it though, because it was basically all hidden up in my crease.

Product List and Routine

I basically did this as a challenge to see if i could achieve long lasting makeup without the help of primers and setting/fixing sprays. It required layering the shit out of things which is why there are so many products for so little end effect. Spoiler alert: it worked

Prep

  1. 2 pumps of Cosrx 95 Galactoyces Whitening Power Essence massaged into face and neck for hydration and to create a smooth skin base.
  2. Clarins Super Restorative Total Eye Concentrate patted in very thin layers onto under eyes and on top of acne scabs to soften.
  3. Use  PPI Skin Illustrator Glazing Gel in Tan 2 to define eye area. Apply in layers until desired intensity is reached. Pat in with fingers or a filbert brush. I used the Shu Uemura Natural #10. This will act as the eye shadow base and transition color as well.
  4. Maybelline Baby Lips Lip Balm in Quenched (clear; not pictured) slathered on to lips hydrate becuase they are always frigging dry.
  5. Wait 6-8 minutes or through two songs for everything minus lipbalm to sink in or dry down.

Base

  1. Tap a very small amount of Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer SX04 (light, strong golden undertones) onto under-eyes, edges of nose, and corners of mouth to color correct for purple darkness and minor red discoloration. Blend with dampened Beauty Blender.
  2. For foundation, mix 1 pump of Burberry Fresh Glow in Nude Radiance with minscule amounts of Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in SX03 and SX07 (light, olive undertones & medium, neutral) in 1:1 ratio on a mixing palette, back of the hand, or empty palette well like I used.  Who said water and oil don’t mix? (Fresh glow is water and glycerin based. SSE is mineral oil based)
  3. Apply base mix with Philosophy Foundation Blending Brush
  4. Do a final blend (including down neck, into hair line, and over ears) with Tarte Airbrush Finish Foundation Brush.
  5. Add extra coverage to any spots that need it (acne, scars, PIH, scabs) with straight SSE using a round, pointed brush. I used the Koyudo Bp036 (natural kolinsky hair), but a great cheap alternative i normally use is the Morphe E36 (synthetic; not pictured).
  6. Apply a very sheer layer of powder with a broad, flexible, paddle powder brush: Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder in Ethereal Light paired with the CDJ Beauty CB101 Powder Brush. People say that Ambient Lighting Powder doesn’t work as a setting powder to extend wear but it sure works for me. It also facillitates the blending of powder products used on top.

Cheeks and Definition

  1. Use the CDJ Beauty CB101 Powder Brush, again, to contour the cheeks with the Kevyn Aucoin Medium Sculpting Powder in the To Go Duo. Use the tapered tip of the brush.
  2. Use the same sculpting powder with a large fluffy eye blending brush to sculpt sides of the nose starting from the inner eye corner hollows to the tip.  I used the Wayne Goss 03 .
  3. Apply Clinique Cheek Pop in Black Honey to cheeks and blend up along cheekbones to the ears and temples with Koyudo BP009. Layer to desired intensity.
  4. Apply Candlelight Celetial Powder from the Kevyn Aucoin To Go Duo with Smashbox #22 Fan Brush to the tops of cheekbones, above the brow, and across the bridge of the nose.

Eyes

  1. Dust a thin layer of Foxy from the Naked Basics Palette over the entire eye lid with a big fluffy brush. I used the Chikuhodo T-6 Eye Brush. The yellow tones neutralize a bit of the red pigments (Glazing Gel Tan 2)  to look more natural on me. The powder formulation acts to absorb oils later on. If you are of non olive skin tone, just use a translucent powder. Tan 2 will be fine on you. No need to neutralize it with a yellow color.
  2. Apply Venus from the Naked Basics Palette to the inner corners of the eye  and take it 1/3’s of the way across (upper and lower lid).  I used the Chikuhodo Z-10 Eye Brush.
  3. Apply Inglot AMC Gel liner in #77 applied to upper lash line and upper waterline with a Mizuho MB133 Liner Brush like you would tightline with a pencil liner.
  4. Take Crave from Naked Basics and smudge it into lash line from above with the Chikuhodo Z-10 Eye Brush. This softens the intense black of the liner i used. Use the tip the Z-10 to flick the sliiightest wing on outer corners of the eye with remaining poduct on the brush for lift.
  5. Use a taupe, grey-ey, brown pencil like Urban Decay 24/7 Glide on Eye Pencil in Faint (LE) on the outer 1/3 of the lower lashline.  I used the tip of the Shu Uemura Natural #10 Brush from earlier to smudge this into almost oblivion until it meets up with the “Venus” highlight from earlier. This defines the lower eye and opens it some. I don’t use a darker color  or take it all the way across because that would close off my eye.
  6. Apply Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream in #11 Gold with the Hourglass #10 Angled Liner Brush to the fold of the crease. While your eye is open, stuff the brush into the fold, then “draw” across with the eye closed.
  7. Allow the Aqua Cream to to dry then apply a matching gold powder shadow on top. I used the same Hourglass #10 Angled Liner brush to press Sue Devitt Agadir Powder Shadow on top of the liner. It will transfer itself on the upper lid to add a little bit of color and glimmer, but more importantly it will absorb oil later on.
  8. Curl lashes with a Shu Uemura S Curler. Do each eye in three sections.
  9. Apply one coat of Dior Diorshow Maximizer Lash Primer. I know i said no primer, but this is a lash booster because i suck with false lashes and my natural ones are pathetic.
  10. Apply one coat of Chanel Inimitable Intense Mascara. Use a lashcomb like the Energy Metal Comb while it is still wet to make the outer corner lashes extra fluttery and seperated.
  11. Use E.L.F. Clear Lash and Brow Mascara to shape and fix brow hairs

Lips

  1. Prime with Urban Decay Ultimate Ozone. Press lips together and smoosh them around to melt it in better.
  2. Apply Urban Decay Vice Lipstick in Back Talk with a square lip brush like the Estee Lauder #35 lip Brush  to work it in so it becomes like a stain, rather than an opaque cream layer. (That whole mess of colors is a UD Vice Lipstick Sample Blister pack depotted into 10 mm circular metal pans, and housed in a Make Up For Ever Metal Palette – Size Small)

Finishing Step

  1. Guerlain Wu Long Pressed Metorites acts like a low key bronzer + light diffuser on me so i applied it to my forehead, chin and  across the cheeks + nose with a Surratt Artisque Face Brush for some extra color and glow

 

Mini Review

Applied starting at 11:30 AM, still chugging at 11:59 PM.

As i write this, I am rather pleased. it’s been 12.5 hours and everything is still on. Coverage has worn away in the raised areas over active pimple islands and scabs, but it’s not terrible  and i’ve touched up those areas as needed. All I’ve done for the test of the face is blot lightly every 3 hours or so. Particularly pleased with my eye makeup still being on. No smears or creases.

Note to Self: I’ve got to haul ass and start reviewing some of these products and brushes, many of which are long time favorites that I’ve brought home for winter break.

Whew congratz for hanging in there. As always comments and questions are welcome.

 

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Posted by on December 18, 2016 in Paint By the Numbers

 

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